On waking the next day, we will prepare our
breakfast, then we will go to discover the jewel of the island : the
Phaeton. We will progress through beaten tracks so as not to degrade
the ecosystem.
An exceptional flora
The vegetation of the Snakes Island is very
diversified. It consists of raised, shrubby and herbaceous strata. The
herbaceous stratum is the most important. This is why the island is a
steppe especially dominated by Andropogon gayanus and Brachiaria distichophylla.
The clayey and rocky nature of the ground explain why
the vegetation is consisted of xerophytic species mainly plants with
latex and baobabs. The former are dominated by euphorbia such as Jatropha
chevalieri and Euphorbia balsamifera. We will
note the presence of species with reduced leaves such as Cadaba
farinosa, Prosopis chilensis. Species with hard
leaves as Boscia senegalensis are also met there. All the characteristics of these plants are an
adaptation to the aridity because they contribute to the limitation of
the plant water loss by the evapotranspiration. This adaptation to the
aridity of the environment makes that many plants lose their leaves
during the dry season and find them only in the rain fall.
Along the way, we will notice that the ligneous species are almost
crawling, which is exceptional.
Indeed, the vegetation developed on a ground with basan and poor
substratum differs from that of the continent by its size and its shape.
The ligneous species, dominated by dwarfish baobabs (approximately 2
metres high) and plants of American origin such as euphorbia with latex
were not developed on sandy blocks but they hung on rocks. However,
cliffs in shape of peaks did not keep them and they were catch on the
stone. But the erosion poured the rare grains of sand present on rocks
in the ravines and cracks where takes refuge henceforth the flora while
developing strategies of survival : stay in short of the ground.
This morphology of trees can be explainded by the fact that the current
maritime blow there very stongly, the ground is basaltic and the
thickness of the sand layer is very fine; that is why roots cannot go
to depth, hence the small size of the ligneous sorts fruits of which
have nevertheless the same taste as those of the continent.
A journey through ages
Always on our road protohistoric vestiges such as
shards of pottery, heap shell collection will make us travel through
ages.
Flints and tools cut in cliffs such as dolerite and basanite were found
on the island, but they are presently preserved at the the Fundamental
Institute of Black Africa IFAN). They testify of a human presence on
the island which would date back to the Neolithic (era from 3000 to
9000 years).
The heap shell collection as well as very numerous shards of potteries
give evidence that the presence of the man on the island would go back
up to 1000 - 2000 years. It is very certainly fishermen of
passage that so abandoned their "waste of kitchen", some mollusks
species vestiges being non-existent on islands but coming from the wide
of coasts. The weak quantity of the heap which are little spread denote
a rare and occasional human occupation.
The existence of these islands was also indicated in the 15th century
by the first navigators who went to the discovery of the African
islands. They visited and described the islands of Madeleine. The first
descriptions were carried out by Gomes Eanes de Zurara in 1444 who
noticed the presence of numerous goats. Stories were multiplied
afterward. We can moreover find some interesting anecdotes such as "the
island is full of birds of sea, pigeons etc., in so big number as the
whole island, covered with droppings, seemed so white as an island of
chalk" (W. Towrson, on 1557) or still that islands "were given up to
eternity in the Crown of France" (Treaty signed by King of France in
1765) by the Damel du Cayor, the former realm of Senegal.
The hut of Lacombe
Always on the tracks of the past of the island, we
will see the compartment of Lacombe, a 250-year old hut built with
fragments of rock. This unfinished construction is the symbol of the
wish of the genius of the island, Ndeuk Daour Mbaye, who refuses a
settlement on these places.
Indeed, Lacombe was a French who wanted to live on the island and to
develop the growing of potato, then he had begun building his house
there. Moreover, he wanted to interest the native populations of
Soumbédioune
(Lébou) in it. Only, every time he believed to have finished his
hut, he found it the next day almost collapsed. According to the
explanation of certain old persons, a stick and human excrements are
every time found next to the collapses. This meant, according to them,
that if he keeps on his idea to build, he would see the annoying
consequences of his stubbornness: the genius does not want
cohabitation. The ruins of this hut are always present on the island.
There is the former guardroom which has become now a refuge for
tarentes (Tarentola annularis). They are a variety of
salamanders. There were permanently, every week, agents of the park the
role of which was to insure the protection and the security of the
island, but since 1985 this is not any more carried out due to the lack
of means. On our road, we can find not venomous hissing grass-snakes.
Afterward, we willl make a bend towards a site formerly occupied by
other types of reptiles : tortoises.
A small bend in the tortoises beach
We will come down up to a zone which was the place
of reproduction of the green tortoise (Lepidochelys kempi) :
the tortoises beach. The disappearance of sandy beach by the fact of
natural phenomena such as the strong tides made the tortoises laying
place change. On the other hand, it is not rare to observe currently
this species of tortoise on sea near this beach.
We have on this beach a spiritual retreat. It is made of coastal stones
where some persons come to pray owing to its tranquillity.
Phaetons in flight
Under a blue sky with a taning sun, we will
observe Phatons in flight. You will recognize easily this beautiful
rare bird of about one metre by the white plumage with black spots in
some parts. Its tail is constituted by long and graceful two central
rectrices. Its flight is characterised by ample wing beatings.
But dear observers, get ready to be observed in return! Because the
Phaeton, "straw in tail" is not afraid of the man. It allows to be
approached and does not hesitate to come to the meeting of its
observer, at whom it looks with curiosity.
The North creek, cormorants and the natural
aquariums
Then, we will go back up to visit the second creek
of the Snakes island : the North creek.
By going to this creek, we can possibly observe a nesting zone of the
Big Cormorant. Cormorants change place of nesting every year because of
the insects that attack their nests. These insects are at the top of
cliffs.
We can admire also in the North creek natural aquariums. They are small
washbasins on the cliffs which imprison the water. These greenish
coloured aquariums can take hostage beautiful small fishes. In the
neighborhood, we can observe some areas serving as a dining hall to the
black Milan.
During the wintering, there will be possible to see ground tortoises
there.
Phaetons in their nests
We will continue our road towards the zone of
nesting of phaetons by taking all the precautions required so as not to
disturb them. In unforgettable moments which we would try to
immortalize, we will observe phaetons in their nests. Indeed, the
Island of Madeleine offers conditions favorable to the nesting. The are
constituted by cliffs shelter numerous cavities, in which phaetons
comes to nest.
There are 500 nests on the island for thousand of phaetons. The Phaeton
just lays an egg that it sits on two months permanently. If it leaves
the egg outdoors, it goes bad. The incubation, carried out both by the
male and the female which alternate on average every six days, lasts
forty two to forty four days. Forty days after the hatching, the small
begins to fly. Phaetons have only two periods of laying in the year,
that is every six months.
The baobab parasol
Not far from the creek Hubert, the observation of
the biggest baobab of the country due to the crawling shape will be the
object of our last stage of visit.
Return at the post of command of the park and the
report of our visit
Then, we will get back to the creek Hubert where
the dugout will wait for us. It will bring us back at the post of
command. At the arrival, a session of restoration and exchanges of
ideas will be held about the visit of the island with the conservative
and the ecoguards.
It is forbidden to take some objects of the island.
Many years ago,the team of the econurses found on the island a dead
phaeton, they then decided to take the bird with them to the P.C. to
stuff it. Hardly did they left the island that they had a serious
accident. Many persons were wounded, the dugout became irreparable and
the dead phaeton was never found.
Visit of the fish market of Soumbédioune
The fish market of Soumbédioune, very full
of life and opened till midnight, is near the command post. It is an
important fish market which shelters a beach lined with hundred of
dugouts of varied dimensions. These multicoloured dugouts make the
beach more attractive.
We will go there to have the possibility of observing the arrival of
the Lebou fishermen. In fact, Soumbédioune is a traditional
fishing port. The discovery of fishermen arrival is a cultural activity
due to the traditional fishing. Furthermore, there is a sort of tacit
organization during the landing of fishes testifying of these people's
natural solidarity. When dugouts moor, people who unload fishes are
those who do not arrange boats. In return, they receive a part of the
unloaded fishes that they can sell for their own account.
These fishermen, very respectful of the marine animal-life, always free
small fishes and those considered traditionally as not edible. This
results from a concern of conservation of the marine animal-life.
The beach of Soumbédioune has a vocation : that to receive the
sacrifices which serve for calming the fury of the sea or for seeking
the protector genius of Dakar, so that the sea provides more fishes or
still in case of repeated accidents, etc. After the libations, the
offerings are taken and put down in the islands of Madeleine, house of
the protector genius of Dakar.
The door of the Third Millennium
Before returning to Yoff, where we will stay
during the last days, we will make a stop at the Door of the Third
Millennium. The famous Senegalese architect Pierre Goudiaby
Atépa was inspired by the islands of Lougnes for the creation
and thecarrying out of this magnificent monument.
From this place where artistic manifestations are organized, it is seen
the central part of Lougnes Islands resembling to a statue of the Virgo
Marie.
This stage marks the end of the program of the day. We will then join
the village of Yoff to spend a peaceful night. We will be welcomed by
families of the village that will accommodate us during the days we
will spend there. This will enable us to live in a religious community
with the villagers and to undestand their way of life by taking part in
their activities and daily activities (washing the fish, crushing
millet, going to the market, etc.)
When we wake up, we will go to the discovery of the other experiences
of the conservation of the nature and other horizons where the culture
is the centre of gravity. In fact, the population of Yoff is very
attached to the traditional religion which appeals to a confused set of
genius
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