On
waking the next day, we will prepare our breakfast, then we will go to
discover the jewel of the island : the Phaeton. We will progress
through beaten tracks so as not to degrade the ecosystem.
An exceptional flora
The
vegetation of the Snakes Island is very diversified. It consists of
raised, shrubby and herbaceous strata. The herbaceous stratum is the
most important. This is why the island is a steppe especially dominated
by Andropogon gayanus and Brachiaria
distichophylla.
The
clayey and rocky nature of the ground explain why the vegetation is
consisted of xerophytic species mainly plants with latex and baobabs.
The former are dominated by euphorbia such as Jatropha chevalieri and Euphorbia balsamifera. We will note the
presence of species with reduced leaves such as Cadaba farinosa, Prosopis chilensis. Species with hard leaves
as Boscia senegalensis are also met there. All
the characteristics of these plants are an adaptation to the aridity
because they contribute to the limitation of the plant water loss by
the evapotranspiration. This adaptation to the aridity of the
environment makes that many plants lose their leaves during the dry
season and find them only in the rain fall.
Along the way, we will notice that the ligneous species are almost
crawling, which is exceptional.
Indeed, the vegetation developed on a ground with basan and poor
substratum differs from that of the continent by its size and its shape.
The ligneous species, dominated by dwarfish baobabs (approximately 2
metres high) and plants of American origin such as euphorbia with latex
were not developed on sandy blocks but they hung on rocks. However,
cliffs in shape of peaks did not keep them and they were catch on the
stone. But the erosion poured the rare grains of sand present on rocks
in the ravines and cracks where takes refuge henceforth the flora while
developing strategies of survival : stay in short of the ground.
This morphology of trees can be explainded by the fact that the current
maritime blow there very stongly, the ground is basaltic and the
thickness of the sand layer is very fine; that is why roots cannot go
to depth, hence the small size of the ligneous sorts fruits of which
have nevertheless the same taste as those of the continent.
A journey through ages
Always on our road protohistoric vestiges such as
shards of pottery, heap shell collection will make us travel through
ages.
Flints and tools cut in cliffs such as dolerite and basanite were found
on the island, but they are presently preserved at the the Fundamental
Institute of Black Africa IFAN). They testify of a human presence on
the island which would date back to the Neolithic (era from 3000 to
9000 years).
The heap shell collection as well as very numerous shards of potteries
give evidence that the presence of the man on the island would go back
up to 1000 - 2000 years. It is very certainly fishermen of
passage that
so abandoned their "waste of kitchen", some mollusks species vestiges
being non-existent on islands but coming from the wide of coasts. The
weak quantity of the heap which are little spread denote a rare and
occasional human occupation.
The existence of these islands was also indicated in the 15th century
by the first navigators who went to the discovery of the African
islands. They visited and described the islands of Madeleine. The first
descriptions were carried out by Gomes Eanes de Zurara in 1444 who
noticed the presence of numerous goats. Stories were multiplied
afterward. We can moreover find some interesting anecdotes such as "the
island is full of birds of sea, pigeons etc., in so big number as the
whole island, covered with droppings, seemed so white as an island of
chalk" (W. Towrson, on 1557) or still that islands "were given up to
eternity in the Crown of France" (Treaty signed by King of France in
1765) by the Damel du Cayor, the former realm of Senegal.
The hut of Lacombe
Always
on the tracks of the past of the island, we will see the compartment of
Lacombe, a 250-year old hut built with fragments of rock. This
unfinished construction is the symbol of the wish of the genius of the
island, Ndeuk Daour Mbaye, who refuses a settlement on these places.
Indeed, Lacombe was a French who wanted to live on the island and to
develop the growing of potato, then he had begun building his house
there. Moreover, he wanted to interest the native populations of
Soumbédioune
(Lébou) in it. Only, every time he believed to have finished his
hut,
he found it the next day almost collapsed. According to the explanation
of certain old persons, a stick and human excrements are every time
found next to the collapses. This meant, according to them, that if he
keeps on his idea to build, he would see the annoying consequences of
his stubbornness: the genius does not want cohabitation. The ruins of
this hut are always present on the island.
There is the former guardroom which has become now a refuge for
tarentes (Tarentola annularis).
They are a variety of salamanders. There were permanently, every week,
agents of the park the role of which was to insure the protection and
the security of the island, but since 1985 this is not any more carried
out due to the lack of means. On our road, we can find not venomous
hissing grass-snakes. Afterward, we willl make a bend towards a site
formerly occupied by other types of reptiles : tortoises.
A small bend in the tortoises beach
We will come down up to a zone which was the place
of reproduction of the green tortoise (Lepidochelys kempi)
: the tortoises beach. The disappearance of sandy beach by the fact of
natural phenomena such as the strong tides made the tortoises laying
place change. On the other hand, it is not rare to observe currently
this species of tortoise on sea near this beach.
We have on this beach a spiritual retreat. It is made of coastal stones
where some persons come to pray owing to its tranquillity.
Phaetons in flight
Under
a blue sky with a taning sun, we will observe Phatons in flight. You
will recognize easily this beautiful rare bird of about one metre by
the white plumage with black spots in some parts. Its tail is
constituted by long and graceful two central rectrices. Its flight is
characterised by ample wing beatings.
But
dear observers, get ready to be observed in return! Because the
Phaeton, "straw in tail" is not afraid of the man. It allows to be
approached and does not hesitate to come to the meeting of its
observer, at whom it looks with curiosity.
The North creek, cormorants and the natural
aquariums
Then, we will go back up to visit the second creek
of the Snakes island : the North creek.
By going to this creek, we can possibly observe a nesting zone of the
Big Cormorant. Cormorants change place of nesting every year because of
the insects that attack their nests. These insects are at the top of
cliffs.
We can admire also in the North creek natural aquariums. They are small
washbasins on the cliffs which imprison the water. These greenish
coloured aquariums can take hostage beautiful small fishes. In the
neighborhood, we can observe some areas serving as a dining hall to the
black Milan.
During the wintering, there will be possible to see ground tortoises
there.
Phaetons in their nests
We
will continue our road towards the zone of nesting of phaetons by
taking all the precautions required so as not to disturb them. In
unforgettable moments which we would try to immortalize, we will
observe phaetons in their nests. Indeed, the Island of Madeleine offers
conditions favorable to the nesting. The are constituted by cliffs
shelter numerous cavities, in which phaetons comes to nest.
There are 500 nests on the island for thousand of phaetons. The Phaeton
just lays an egg that it sits on two months permanently. If it leaves
the egg outdoors, it goes bad. The incubation, carried out both by the
male and the female which alternate on average every six days, lasts
forty two to forty four days. Forty days after the hatching, the small
begins to fly. Phaetons have only two periods of laying in the year,
that is every six months.
The baobab parasol
Not
far from the creek Hubert, the observation of the biggest baobab of the
country due to the crawling shape will be the object of our last stage
of visit.
Return at the post of command of the park and the
report of our visit
Then,
we will get back to the creek Hubert where the dugout will wait for us.
It will bring us back at the post of command. At the arrival, a session
of restoration and exchanges of ideas will be held about the visit of
the island with the conservative and the ecoguards.
It
is forbidden to take some objects of the island. Many years ago,the
team of the econurses found on the island a dead phaeton, they then
decided to take the bird with them to the P.C. to stuff it. Hardly did
they left the island that they had a serious accident. Many persons
were wounded, the dugout became irreparable and the dead phaeton was
never found.
Visit of the fish market of Soumbédioune
The
fish market of Soumbédioune, very full of life and opened till
midnight, is near the command post. It is an important fish market
which shelters a beach lined with hundred of dugouts of varied
dimensions. These multicoloured dugouts make the beach more attractive.
We will go there to have the possibility of
observing the arrival of the Lebou fishermen. In fact,
Soumbédioune is
a traditional fishing port. The discovery of fishermen arrival is a
cultural activity due to the traditional fishing. Furthermore, there is
a sort of tacit organization during the landing of fishes testifying of
these people's natural solidarity. When dugouts moor, people who unload
fishes are those who do not arrange boats. In return, they receive a
part of the unloaded fishes that they can sell for their own account.
These fishermen, very respectful of the marine animal-life, always free
small fishes and those considered traditionally as not edible. This
results from a concern of conservation of the marine animal-life.
The beach of Soumbédioune has a vocation : that to receive the
sacrifices which serve for calming the fury of the sea or for seeking
the protector genius of Dakar, so that the sea provides more fishes or
still in case of repeated accidents, etc. After the libations, the
offerings are taken and put down in the islands of Madeleine, house of
the protector genius of Dakar.
The door of the Third Millennium
Before
returning to Yoff, where we will stay during the last days, we will
make a stop at the Door of the Third Millennium. The famous Senegalese
architect Pierre Goudiaby Atépa was inspired by the islands of
Lougnes
for the creation and thecarrying out of this magnificent monument.
From this place where artistic manifestations are organized, it is seen
the central part of Lougnes Islands resembling to a statue of the Virgo
Marie.
This stage marks the end of the program of the day. We will then join
the village of Yoff to spend a peaceful night. We will be welcomed by
families of the village that will accommodate us during the days we
will spend there. This will enable us to live in a religious community
with the villagers and to undestand their way of life by taking part in
their activities and daily activities (washing the fish, crushing
millet, going to the market, etc.)
When we wake up, we will go to the discovery of the other experiences
of the conservation of the nature and other horizons where the culture
is the centre of gravity. In fact, the population of Yoff is very
attached to the traditional religion which appeals to a confused set of
genius
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